Bhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon 2022
There is so much to say about our trip throughout the Kingdom of Bhutan! Bhutan’s culture is so different and so much that is more about a spiritual feeling that permeates all areas of life, both physical and spiritual that is difficult to explain. It is also hard to believe that a country exists like this in today’s world. We feel very fortunate to have spent over 2 weeks exploring this country that is known as “the Land of the Thunder Dragon” (Druk Yul – Bhutan’s official name).
Bhutan is surrounded by Nepal, Tibet (China) and India, and is fully located in the Himalayan mountains. While the size of the country is small, traveling from one area to another takes a long time. The expression is that Bhutan has “short distances and long journeys”. There are no stop lights and the twisty roads are often one lane and 2-way, creating heart stopping moments as we moved our way through the steep Himalayan Mountain roads. Airports are limited, as the steep mountains and the narrow valleys make for a nail biting and risky take off and landings.
Before coming to Bhutan, we heard about Bhutan being guided by the principles of “Gross National Happiness”. We learned that Gross National Happiness is a term coined by His Majesty the Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, in the 1970s. The concept implies that sustainable development should take a holistic approach towards notions of progress and give equal importance to non-economic aspects of wellbeing. We observed this philosophy throughout our travels and saw it reflected in the people we encountered in the cities and in the rural areas.
Buddhism is present most everywhere, including its mythical history and beliefs intertwined in today’s practices. Many prayer flags and flags for the dead on scattered throughout the hillsides, and stupas (Chortens) and temples are frequently visited by the villagers. Buddhism plays a central role in both spiritual life, and in the values and laws of society. The Government is also making consistent efforts to maintain the culture by enforcing consistent regulations for architecture, education, cultural practices, values and limiting tourism. Bhutanese also have 2 given names (no last name), making dating a little more challenging not to date family members!
We started are travels in Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital and largest city. We visited the Buddha Dordenma (Large Gold Buddha) and found thousands of pilgrims there praying. Trashichho Dzong is a grand fort that houses government officials but was beautiful during our late afternoon visit. What was really special was our hike up through the forest to Cheri Goemba (Monestary), which was constructed in 1620.
Next was Paro, and the highlights were Drugyel Dzong (Fort), and the hike up to Tiger’s Nest followed by an amazing lunch in a farmhouse. The hike to Tiger’s nest was steep and we followed it up the cliffs of the mountain through the blue-green forest. After passing the waterfall, we reached the amazing temple which hung on to the sides of the cliff. Our delicious lunch afterwards was a variety of typical Bhutanese food in a farmhouse on our way back to Para.
Our next stop was flying to Bumthang which comprises of four valleys and is located in the northcentral area of Bhutan. Our first day was spent visiting the ancient temples, strolling through villages and fields, and even meeting the Queen and the future king of Bhutan during one of their visits to a temple! We attended the Tschechu Festival the following day at the temple, which is a festival for the village citizens that demonstrates religious beliefs through a series of masked dances conducted by the Monks. We observed the Dance of the Rakshars and the Judgement of the Dead which lasted over 4 hours. Our last day was hiking through the Ura Valley and crossed the Wangthang La Pass.
We then started our long drive back to Paro and visited the Trongsa Monastery and the Wangdu Phodrang Monastery before our stay in Gangtey where we witnessed the migration of the black necked cranes. Our next stay was to Punakha, the old capital of Bhutan, and where we admired the amazing archery ability of the locals before our visit to the Punakha Fortress (Dzong).
Our last day driving to Paro took us through some spectacular views, including a visit to the Royal Botanical Park and going over the Dochula Pass which now houses 108 hillside chortens.
Our travel itinerary included the following locations, and all lodging and travel was through Six Senses Bhutan. Thimphu, Paro, Bumthang, Gangtey, and Punakha.
Outside of Thimphu
Buddha Dordenma in Thimphu (52 meters tall)
Dancing with locals at a Bhutan museum
View from Thimphu hotel
Yak sausage at the market
Hike to Cheri Goemba Monastery outside of Thimphu
Miniature chortens made of clay, stone or a decedent's ashes, to honor memory and found in sacred places - such as this hike to a monastery.
Archery competition with our guide and driver
Archery Victory Dance
Dart throwing competition too!
Hike to a ridge of Memorial Prayer flags
Prayer Wheels: Spinning the wheel is equivalent to reciting the mantras
Ancient Ruin of Drukyel Dzong - Fortress for military purposes only
Rinpung Dzong monastery & fortress in Paro
The Wheel of Life (called the 'Bhavachakra' in Sanskrit) is a symbolic representation of cyclic existence, found on the walls of Tibetan Buddhist temples and monasteries
Rinpung Dzong monastery & fortress
Start of our hike to Taktsang Goemba monastery, better know as Tiger’s Nest.
Pilgrim on the way to Tiger’s Nest
Tiger’s Nest
Lunch at a farmhouse on our way back to Paro
Prayer room in farmhouse
Harvesting rice
View of the Himalayans on our flight from Paro to Bumthang
Large Prayer Wheels in Bumthang temple
Old paintings inside Bumthang temple
Jakar Dzong. This is the Dzong where we watched the Jakar Tshechu festival
Masked monk dancing during the “Dance of the Rakshas and the Judgement of the Dead”
Older villagers pay close attention in preparation for their own death and children watched with interest and awe.
Dinner we helped prepare at a local farmhouse
Ura Valley
Start of our hike to Shelthang La Pass - 11,800 ft
Blood Pheasant at a farmhouse
View of Gangkhar Puensum mountain 24,700 ft - highest unclimbed mountain in Bhutan
Forest on the way down on our hike
Trongsa Dzong on our drive back to Paro - Largest Dzong in Bhutan
Chendebji Chorten - Built to subdue the dreaded demoness of the Chendebji area - Picnic lunch stop
Lawa La Pass - 2nd highest pass in Bhutan
Phobjikha Valley
Black-Neck cranes - 1st day of migration
Wangdue Phodrang Goemba
During Tea time at Wangdue Phodrang monastery we shared snacks!
Views of valley during our hike
Sangchen Dorji Lhendrup Nunnery, Punakha
Locals during archery competition
Punakha Dzong and fortress - Bhutan’s former capital till 1955
Picnic lunch at the Royal Botanical Gardens
Dochula Pass - 108 chortens
