Oaxaca 2023: History, Culture and Food
Oaxaca de Juarez is the capital and largest city of the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca. The city is inland from the Pacific Ocean by only about 150 miles, but would take 7-8 hours to drive! Oaxaca is well known for the amazing food, in particular chocolate, mezcal, grasshoppers and mole! But it also has a long and fascinating history of several civilizations in the area. The best known indigenous people of the area are the Zapotecs and the Mixtecs.
There are many sites and, of course, food to enjoy while in Oaxaca City but some of our travel highlights were traveling to the archeological sites of Monte Alban and Mitla. Evidence of human habitation dates back to about 13,000 years, with the archeological site of Mitla, a religious focused area, as the most important of the Zapotec culture. Monte Alban, on the otherhand, was the most important political and commercial community and had an estimated population of over 25,000 people.
After the 1521 fall of Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), the Spanish conquered and colonized Oaxaca, which had a devastating effect on the native population, due to European diseases and forced labor. The Zapotecs and the Mixtecs, for the most part, chose not to fight the newcomers, and instead, negotiated to keep most of the old hierarchy but with ultimate authority to the Spanish.
When visiting Oaxaca City today, you will find the Cathedral and Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzman in the center of the city. The construction of the beautiful Baroque style church started in 1572 and was completed in 1724. Oaxaca City’s neighborhood blocks lead from the Church into surrounding neighborhoods. The colonial architecture is largely a façade that opens up to beautiful courtyards for private homes, apartments, restaurants and hotels.
We took a city and food walking tour, which introduced us to many different neighborhoods and tastes of local dishes. Also, neighborhoods such at Barrio Jalaflaco had street after street of creative and colorful street art. We also took a guided tour of “Jardin Etnobotanico” (Botanical Gardens) and learned about the local plant life. Interestingly, the buildings at the gardens was an old monastery which was taken over by the military. Now, it’s a beautiful garden that shows the great diversity of plant life throughout Oaxaca.
Another favorite activity was visiting the Zaachila Market. Street markets are everywhere in Mexico but the Zaachila market was one of the best markets we have visited! People came from surrounding “colonies” to buy and sell everything, which included livestock, crafts, vegetables, meats, clothes, and also, gather together to dine and enjoy live music!
While we were on the move most days touring interesting areas, we did make a point to take a walk through the city each day and sometimes, after dinner. It was fun to watch local life unfold before us. We especially liked watching the kids learn roller skating tricks, the food trucks handing out ice cream, churros and tacos, and sitting in the park to watch the families seeking shade on a sunny Sunday and enjoying the food and activities. We loved that the state of Oaxaca still has lively areas filled with culture, amazing food, interesting ruins, and some of the best street art we ever saw!